a woman standing on a bicycle in front of a mountain

Slovenia wasn’t exactly on my bucket list — at least not until I signed on to work the Road of Empires tour with TDA Global Cycling. For two months, I’d be bouncing from southern Spain, across the Strait of Gibraltar into Algeria and Tunisia, then leapfrogging over the Mediterranean to Sicily. After the tour wrapped, I’d drive one of our support vans all the way up Italy to Vienna. Phew. Sometimes I wonder how my life got this cool.

But what does all that have to do with Slovenia?

Well, after two months of non-stop group travel, I knew I’d be craving a solo adventure—something quiet, flexible, and my kind of two-wheeled travel. Before I left for Europe, I hopped on Bikepacking.com and started scouting routes near northern Italy and Austria that wouldn’t be a total logistical headache. The Slovenia West Loop checked all the boxes: eight days, a loop for easy logistics, frequent resupply points, a bike-friendly and safe country, and a lot of mountain magic? Sign me up!

To be honest, though, I didn’t really study the route in detail. I figured I’d wing it. I’m an experienced bikepacker, in decent shape, a good problem-solver, and comfortable in new places. How hard could it be?

Well… a little harder than I expected.

Between an under-biked setup, moody afternoon thunderstorms, and mental and physical fatigue after two months of working a tour, I ended up tweaking the route to make it a bit easier. And honestly? It was perfect.

In this post, I share all the details about my adventure including what route(s) I followed, the highlights and challenges, things I’d do differently and other tips I wish I’d known before setting out.

Highlights of bikepacking the Slovenia West Loop

Starting and ending in super cute Ljubljana
Sneaky (and technical!) singletrack
Idyllic landscapes & truly stunning vistas
Picturesque Lake Bled

Climbing up and over Vršič Pass
The Soča River. I’ve never seen water so blue!
Predjama Castle & Postojna Cave – don’t skip!

✨ Photo Gallery

a landscape of a hill with trees and a tower on top

a woman wearing a helmet and sunglasses taking a selfie

a campfire in a gravel area with a campfire in the middle

a road with a fence and mountains in the background

A bicycle is parked on a dirt road near a mountain range.

a road with a circular object in the middle of it

My Trip Overview

Here’s a quick snapshot of my ride. I didn’t follow the Bikepacking.com Slovenia West Loop exactly (more on that below), so keep that in mind if you’re planning your own trip.

Start/End
Ljubljana

Time of year
Mid May

Days
8 days (1 rest day)

Distance
260 miles
418 km

Elevation
26,180 ft
7979 m

High point
5,291 ft
1,613 m

Route map

The “Official” Route vs the Soča Variant (& why I chose the latter)

If you look at the map above, you’ll see two lines:

Blue = the official Slovenia West Loop from Bikepacking.com
Red = the Soča Variant, which I ended up switching over to

At first glance, they look pretty similar, but don’t be fooled! The official route has three major climbs (and lots of small ones) while the Soča Variant skirts around two of the biggest ascents. It doesn’t really reduce the distance much, but it does cuts out a whopping 8,858 feet/2,700 meters of climbing. Yowza.

I didn’t actually know about the Soča Variant when I started riding. I had planned to follow the official route, but on Day 2 (after a really tough day 1), I met a pair of fellow bikepackers who’d started in Nova Gorica and they, like me, had also been caught off guard with the steep climbs and technical singletrack. They told me they had switched to the Soča route for a more manageable ride and were happy they did.

I was hesitant to abandon the ‘official route’ because I’m a ‘do it all kind of person’, but ultimately I took their advice and made the switch, too. My gravel bike and pannier setup wasn’t ideal for the rough singletrack and I wasn’t keen on doing big, remote climbs (or camping) in fierce afternoon thunderstorms.

While the Soča Variant is definitely a bit mellower, it’s certainly not “easy”. It’s still a challenging ride, just with two less brutal climbs, fewer rough tracks, and a some epic riding along the stunning Soča River.

So which should you do?

Do the official route if

You’re in good climbing shape. There are three massive climbs, one on rough gravel, as well as plenty of smaller climbs
You’re comfortable on loose gravel and technical singletrack
You’re riding a hardtail and have packed relatively light. I don’t recommend panniers.
The weather looks favorable
You want more time in the mountains and in remote areas

Do the Soča variant if

You’re looking for a slower, more relaxed pace
You’re not comfortable getting pretty remote
You’re riding a gravel bike (I still recommend wide tires – see below)
The weather looks iffy
You want more time along the beautiful Soča River

a woman taking a selfie on a bridge over a valley with mountains

My day-by-day details

Here’s a quick look at how my trip played out day-by-day.

Distance: 38.5 miles
Elevation gain: 6,401 ft
Terrain: Everything! Quiet roads, steep climbs, singletrack descents, some hike-a-biking. It’s a tough but beautiful day.
Highlights: The incredible views climbing out of Ljubljana, remote singletrack, hilltop churches, and idyllic little towns.
Camped at: Eco River Camp (food, water, showers, electricity). Slightly off route, but I think it’s absolutely worth it.

I started the day feeling strong but quickly realized this route doesn’t mess around! The first big climb out of Ljubljana was tough, but the second one really kicked my butt. Beautiful scenery though — Slovenia is stunning!

Distance: 33 miles
Elevation gain: 3,264 ft
Terrain: Not nearly as hard as day 1. More quiet roads, a few gravel stretches, and some scenic bike paths.
Highlights: Beautiful Lake Bled, Triglav National Park, first views of the rugged Alps
Camped at: Natura Eco Camp (water, showers, electricity). Quiet place, I really liked it.

Leaving Eco River Camp, I took the trail along to river to avoid backtracking up steep hills. It was a hike-a-bike type-2-fun adventure. If you choose this way, be forewarned. I recommend taking the first left at the Y intersection on the trail – it’ll still be tough, but at least a bit shorter!

Distance: 26.5 miles
Elevation gain: 3,648 ft
Terrain: Up into the mountains! Mostly paved road with a few gravel stretches.
Highlights: STUNNING views, first glimpses of the turquoise Soča River, bomber descent on the other side
Camped at: Kamp Klin (food, water, showers, electricity)

The Vršič Pass is one of the most famous roads in Slovenia. It’s a relatively gradual climb, but it does go on for miles. Don’t skip the gravel switchback section near the top – you might be tempted to, but it’s really not that bad and the views are great!

Distance: 66 miles
Elevation gain: 4,439 ft
Terrain: Rolling roads (paved and gravel) along the Soča River
Highlights: The Soča River – I’ve never seen water so blue!
Camped at: Saksida Wine & Camping Resort (high-end restaurant, water, showers, electricity)

This stretch was long, but really beautiful. Easy pedaling, turquoise water, charming mountain towns. I wanted to push miles so I could have a full rest day tomorrow.

I spent a full rest day at Saksida Wine & Camping Resort. It’s a really nice place to relax and enjoy the beautiful area. The weather was off-and-on rainy/stormy, so it was nice to have some shelter to stay dry.

Distance: 38.5 miles
Elevation gain: 4,915 ft
Terrain: Similar to yesterday with rolling hills – paved and gravel – along the Soča River
Highlights: Vineyards, quaint tidy towns, quiet dirt roads, Pradjema Castle
Camped at: Pivka Jama Camping (restaurant, water, showers, electricity)

Relatively easy, but scenic day. The highlight is definitely Pradjema Castle!

Distance: 21.7 miles
Elevation gain: 1,312 ft
Terrain: Remote gravel roads, idyllic views
Highlights: Postojna Cave – worth the entrance fee! Seasonal disappearing lakes
Camped at: Free camping “Emberbarn” (water)

I did a short day today so I could visit Postojna Cave. It was so cool! I highly recommend it. The rest of the ride is mostly on a beautiful, quiet gravel road.

Distance: 34.5 miles
Elevation gain: 2,201 ft
Terrain: Quiet roads, small towns, hike-a-bike singletrack descent
Highlights: A sense of accomplishment!

Final day! The riding today wasn’t the most scenic or spectacular, but you’ll have a sense of accomplishment as you pedal your way back into Ljubljana.

Download my Google Maps locations!

Would I have done anything differently? Thinking back, I do kind of regret not sticking to the official route. The northwest corner of the West Loop looks incredible and while the Soča River variant is stunning, I do wonder what I missed up in the mountains. And it would have been cool to cross into Italy briefly. That said, I think the Soča Variant was the right choice for my trip based on my bike set up, energy levels, and the weather.

If I were do to this trip again, I’d do the full West Loop and choose a hardtail mountain bike, no panniers, and go in late May for fewer thunderstorms.

My gear set up & gear tips

I know everyone has their own bikepacking gear and bike setup preferences, but here are a few things I either wish I’d known ahead of time or was very glad I had dialed in before starting my trip.

a bicycle leaning against a bush — This wasn’t the ideal set up for this trip, but it’s what I had so I made it work!

Bike: Since I was heading out on the Slovenia West Loop right after working the Road of Empires tour, I used the bike I already had with me — my Otso Warakin gravel/touring rig. It got the job done, but if I were to do this trip again (especially sticking to the official route), I’d definitely opt for a short-travel hardtail. It would have made the rougher sections a lot more manageable.
Tires: Wide mountain bike tires are your friend for this route. There’s some rough roads and techincal singletrack. I ran 2.1″ Continental Ruban’s on both my front and rear wheels and thought they were a great choice.
Rain gear: I did my trip in early/mid May and while I actually never really biked in the rain, it was definitely a stormy week with pretty fierce afternoon thunderstorms. Thankfully, I arrived at my camps before they hit, but it could have been a lot worse. Be prepared with some good rain gear and a good tent.
Bikepacking bags: My bikepacking bag setup consisted of two small ‘gravel’ panniers, a frame bag, a small handlebar bag, a small cockpit bag, and a hydration pack. I didn’t love having panniers because of the singletrack and rough tracks, so I recommend trying to get away with a seat post bag or more stable panniers like this Aeroe setup.

For a full list of my favorite bikepacking gear, head over to my bikepacking gear list.

Logistics & Planning FAQs for the Slovenia West Loop

Yes, there is a great bike shop in Ljubljana – Loose Cycles. I got my bike tuned up there right before my trip and they were awesome. Super helpful and friendly. I also asked if they could save me a bike box and they were more than happy to.

I camped every night of my trip, but at established campgrounds (there are lots). Wild camping is actually illegal in Slovenia. That being said, I would have felt comfortable wild camping on most nights except for around Lake Bled (too busy) and Triglav National Park (definitely illegal). Outside of these areas it’s pretty easy to find a stealth camp spot, but if you do get caught, you’ll probably get a fine.

Even though I love wild camping, for this trip I was happy to stay in campgrounds for the hot showers and kitchen facilities.

I rode the West Loop in early/mid May and it felt a little too early. Some evenings were pretty chilly and there was quite a bit of rain. I’d say late May through early October would be ideal. Spring has wildflowers, summer is warmer (but more tourists), and fall brings cooler temps and golden scenery. Watch out for snow at higher elevations, though, if you go early or late!

I did 8 days (Soča Variant) with one full rest day. Bikepacking.com recommends 6-8 days, but if you do the official route, even 8 days would be tough (you’d average over 5K of climbing every day). It really depends on what your bike setup is, how strong/fit you are, and how many hours you can stand being in the saddle.

If I were do to the full West Loop, I’d plan for 9 days including one full rest day.

Yes – I had no problems communicating and I don’t speak a lick of Slovenian. I did have to use Google translate on my phone a few times, but for the most part, every speaks at least basic English.

Yup. You definitely could. There are lots of guesthouses along the route and it would be easy to sleep in a bed every night. In the shoulder seasons (spring and fall) you probably don’t even need reservations. In the summer months, it’s probably best to book in advance so you’re not scrambling to find a place after a long day in the saddle.

I didn’t bring a stove and never felt like I needed one. Most of the campgrounds either have a restaurant/food nearby or a well-equipped communal camp kitchen (which are awesome!).

I didn’t bring a water filter, but I did bring a few AquaTabs that I used once (and honestly probably didn’t even need to). There are plenty of places to fill up via a tap or village pump. If you plan on wild camping and getting your water from rivers, you might want to bring a filter.

Super easy! There are lots of small shops and restaurants along the route. I never had to carry more than a lunch and snacks.

Honestly, pretty tricky at times. You absolutely need a bike computer (I use my Garmin Edge) and I recommend having a second way to navigate as well (I also use my phone with the route downloaded to Ride With GPS). There are lots of turns and some stretches where it seems like you shouldn’t be going that way, but you actually are.

Even with a GPS computer, I missed several turns, which resulted in bonus miles and climbing.

Bikepacking the Slovenia West Loop (or more accurately, the Soča Variant) was one of my favorite bikepacking trips I’ve done. It was SO beautiful with all the idyllic towns, hill top churches, incredible vistas, and unique surprises. It was my first solo bikepacking adventure, too, and even though it was in a country I’d never visited before, I always felt safe (although, I will say I am very confident as a solo female traveler to begin with, including when I find myself in the middle of nowhere).

This trip was incredible in many ways and I hope this post inspires you to perhaps put it on your bike-it list or start your planning preparations!

What questions do you have about the Slovenia West Loop or Soča Variant? Is this a bikepacking trip you’d like to do? Leave a comment below!

2 Comments

chris brown says:

June 14, 2025 at 8:59 am

hey Becky,
We enjoyed your Slovenia report and guide. Our travels there took us on a 7 day supported e-bike tour doing the western loop one year and then a 6 day supported eastern loop the following year. The hardtail class1 e-bikes gave us 70 year olds the opportunity to enjoy all that you did. both trips were awesome. we used a local bike touring company, Geen Hills out of Skoja Loka. They were awesome and so accommodating. as weather occasionally posed an issue they figured out alternate biking strategies, such as biking to a winery, cheese producer or coffee shop until the storm blew by. Slovenia reminded us of our summer home in the Rockies, a beautiful and friendly country; absolutely worth exploring on two wheels.
chris & melanie

1. Becky Timbers says:
  
  June 16, 2025 at 9:16 am
  
  Thanks guys! It’s such a beautiful country and I’ll definitely be back. I’ll check out Green Hills, too!

Bikepacking the Slovenia West Loop: My Route, Highlights & Lessons Learned